"4 Mile, shit I'm still only on 4 Mile. Every time I think I'm gunna wake up back at Buller Hub"
With apologies and a nod to Apocalypse Now.
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Runners at the start of The Archie. They went 'down' 4 Mile.
Not implying it's soft, but...
Photo credit: The Eventurers* |
The prospect of going up 4 Mile seemed so much better than going down; until we were going up. We'd hit the aid station at the Howqua River around noon, and the heat of the day was only just starting to ramp up. It was tough going, the cool of the river crossings a cruel, distant memory as each footstep took us a bit higher, but the heat lower down was taking its toll. This was us, toiling up a never-ending spur keeping an eye on other runners.
It had started fine this morning, in the cool of pre-dawn. Our brief as sweepers (myself, Belle, Nick and Babi) was to jump in at the start of the race about mid-pack and run/walk with the competitors so that we were close to them if anything went wrong. What race, you ask? Oscars Hut 2 Hut, a quite brutal run that aims to put you well out of your comfort zone in an effort to understand the pressures of living with Autism. I've described this event before after volunteering last year. Brave Faces gives an account of that race and a potted history behind it. At the time, we thought last year was a one-off; 2 loops of the new Archie course for the 100k runners. Last year it was due to bushfires, this year a snap lockdown the week before due to COVID made marking the 100k course impossible. A quick reshuffle, and 2 loops of the 55k course (run on separate days) it was. A subtle difference being loop 1 would run clockwise. Meaning, a long quad-smasher down Corn Hill and a grueling climb up 4 Mile. The suggestion came from a runner in South Australia who unfortunately couldn't make the trip interstate. Actually, fortunately; they would have been lynched at the finish line.
Course Map Note: course map kilometre marks are showing the 2020 course.
Back to the start. 4:00am get up, coffee, and a final check of kit. Good to go. Nick, Babi, and I are staying in the same accommodation, strolled down to the start line to meet up with Belle, pick up the radio and watch the start. We went down to the aid station at the 4k mark, called Little Buller, and waited around for the runners to come through.
The following is my summarised recollection of the day.
The first runner through Little Buller takes the wrong path. Seems the signage and course markings not up to scratch in the dark. Muttered apologies, and hastily procured witches hats saved the rest.
A congo line of head torches approaches. The previous day I was doing mandatory gear checks and had not accepted Tom Cullen's gear as he wasn't there (Dale Chircop doing it for him) and I needed to see his phone with Avenza Maps app installed, the course loaded. A runner peels off, goes over to Andy Payne and Chris Ord (RD's) whips out the phone, calls up Avenza, shows the loaded map, and runs on without missing a beat. Tom Cullen, fulfilling obligation 😊
Waiting to jump into a gap in the running groups was like kids swiveling hips trying to synchronise with a skipping rope. After roughly 70 runners, we had a small gap, start watches and off we go. The first faint light of dawn is on the horizon. 0k in 0 hours.
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| View through the trees as dawn gives way to the day. Photo credit: Babi Salozi |
The first 5ks for us is gently down, mostly along single trail. Lots of runners around us - we are quick to assure people we are mid-pack sweeps, they are not in danger of being pulled from the course. The dawn colours slowly change from purples to blues, a fiery orange, then yellow.
Jogging down the track called Trigger Happy, hearing snatches of conversation from teams in front and behind us as we zig-zagged through the snow gums. Single-trail here, easy going, the weather still cool but humid. Hit the aid station at Howqua Hut, which was slightly chaotic. Covid rules meant masks on as we approach, all runners to have their number crossed off a list, with people deciding if they are going to actually enter the closed-off area, or just continue. Quick (mandatory) selfie with Caz, and we headed off. 5.2k in 54 minutes.
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| Mandatory Caz selfie at Howqua Hut Aid Station. |
As we left, spied a friend, Renee, talking to medics. We hoped there was nothing in it, but this early in a race is never a good look.
Down Circuit Road for 2k before we turn off onto Corn Hill track. Quite light by now, passing teams of runners who look for your bib (trying to find a name). We have no bibs.
Runners: "Who are you?"
Us: "Sweeps"
Runners: "Shit!"
Us: "No, no, you're fine. We are mid-pack sweeps"
Runners: "Phew". Pause for a bit, "Err, what's a mid-pack sweep?"
And so it went on with a number of teams, throughout the day.
I wasn't looking forward to the run down Corn Hill. A quad-smasher, in my opinion, but in reality, it wasn't that bad. Only the really steep sections in the last 4k that had a few issues. Loose rocks being an issue. All of us, bar Nick, took a tumble. Mine apparently looked particularly painful. But I got up, brushed myself off, and continued on. (Only at home, 2 days later, upon seeing the grapefruit-sized purple bruise and scabbed impact point dead centre, did I realise how bad it could have been).
Halfway down, passed 2 blokes making their way down with ease. Front bloke calls out to his mate, "Hey, you reckon your calves are pretty shit. Check this blokes out!" "Geez, they're beauties!" They'd only been on the trail about 2 hours 30, a bit early for calf-porn, boys...
No picking blackberries this year. As thick as they were through the gullies, the fruit was small and unripe. Nothing short of napalm would remove some of it, so overwhelming it was for all the other plants.
Temperature starting to warm-up as we descended lower. The last 2k's before Pikes Flat, we had the Howqua River to the right of us as we doubled back along the track. Sweating now, quite a lot and we were all looking forward to getting to the aid station.
Pikes Flat Aid station was a welcome sight, after wading through the river crossing. Shoes and socks wet, but no worries, still quite a few more crossings before we climb back out of the valley. Sandwiches (Peanut Butter for me, Vegemite for Belle) and bananas, fill up our drink flasks and we head out again. 18.9k in 2 hours 48.
The trail here follows the Howqua, burbling away to our right. Nick and I last year ran this in the late evening to early night. Most of the way, our path lit by our head torches. In daylight, it was surprising to see how high above the river we actually climbed, then back down, then up again. Whilst nothing like the climb coming up, the elevation here was surprising.
By now, the teams of runners and us are spread out. we occasionally see a team ahead, or maybe hear a voice behind us, but generally, the 4 of us are on our own. We chat a bit, listen to the chatter on the two-way radios and push on. The idea is we run the downs and flats, walk/hike the ups. It's what teams around us would also be doing.
As each period of time passes, the temperature increases, but the humidity doesn't let up. It's making us wonder what the climb up 4 Mile will be like.
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| Richies Hut. More river crossings from here until 4 Mile Spur. |
About 500 metres out from Richies Hut (25k, 3 hours 52) we came across our first snake. I'd been running out front for a period, getting as much as 50 metres in front, before waiting for the others. At one of these points, I spotted Mr. Snake. Just under a metre long, sunning him (or her) self in a patch of sunlight. Bright yellow banding on the underside, rich dark colour on top. Beautiful specimen, but be buggered if it was going to get off the trail. Phones out for a quick photo (never do it justice), then we edged closer. It got the message and moved off, but not far. We slowly moved past, its head flattening in a display of aggression. Safely past, and next thing we are at Richies.
Friend Em here, helping with marshal duties. A quick chat. She was wondering about Renee and we told her about her seeing medics at Howqua. Told her we didn't know if it meant anything, and honestly, we didn't know. Then it was on to the first of 12 river crossings over the next 4k. Didn't mind the crossings, a good excuse to cool down in the river, escape the increasing heat.
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One of the many river crossings. Howqua river was cool and fresh.
Along with many runners, we made most of cooling down by splashing
water and soaking scarves. Photo credit: Babi Salozi. |
Arrived at 8 Mile aid station around 10:30 in the morning. Fill up water flasks again, banana and some apple. As we are about to leave, Tegan Angel rolls in. He is also out sweeping mid-pack but had ridden his bike down to Pikes Flat (not recommended, according to Tegz) and run from there. We all exited the aid station, onto Brocks Road, and Tegz and I ran/walked the 2k until the path veered back onto the trail again. At that point Tegz took off, feeling we were better split up. Heat now starting to bite.
Heard on the radio that the first runners were already at the top of 4 Mile. That speed was unfathomable.
After a brief wait for the others, we headed off on the last section to 4 Mile. This had the least shade, and sections had a steep drop to the river on the right and a steep embankment on the left. The path, obviously, was very... obvious. I had a fleeting thought that this wouldn't be a good place for a snake encounter, then scrubbed it from my mind.
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| View back over the Howqua River valley. On the way to 4 Mile, just before the snake encounter. |
So, when I ran past and heard a loud rustling in the undergrowth on the left-hand-side, I stopped to have a look. In one sense, I wish I didn't. In another, glad I did as I was able to alert the others. At first, I thought it might have been a lizard. Looked closer (from the safe distance of 2 metres away) and saw what looked like the body of a Blue-Tongue lizard, the same thickness. Except it was coiled up and was quite obviously a snake, well over a metre and a half. I called out to the others to stop. As I did, it shot down a burrow. Called everyone through and we got out of there quick smart.
Just as I was wondering how far to 4 Mile aid station, a volunteer on the trail appeared, meaning it was the next corner. Pulled in to grab my second can of Coke for the day. The blissful combination of sugar and caffeine is unparalleled for this runner! Last year this aid station was like a MASH episode with runners collapsed everywhere. Many having been swept by officials and looking worse for wear. A friend, Geoff came in, knee strapped up, but still moving. He had a big climb ahead, we all had a big climb ahead. I drank plenty of water here, filled up all my flasks, and when we were all ready, headed off for one last crossing of the Howqua River. 36.9k in 6 hours and 5.
Cross the river, one last wetting of clothes and scarf, then head down, bum up and start the climb. Early on we heard there was a water drop at the top of the climb, it was a long time between aid stations and this time of the day was the hottest. One thing we were hoping for, the higher we climbed, the cooler it would get. It did, eventually.
Met Julie and Karen from EMS, they heading down keeping an eye on competitors as they headed up. They let us know that a few teams ahead were struggling. Just quietly, so were we a little bit.
We trudged up, playing ping pong with a few teams as we climbed. Asked everyone as we passed how they were going. Most were pretty stuffed but applying strategies to combat the heat and dwindling energy.
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Climbing up 4 Mile. This wasn't even the steepest part, that was to come later one.
Picture credit: Babi Salozi. |
Several times along the way, we had to stop and have a good look for trail markers, as the trail was at best, indistinct. At worst, just a jumble of rocks that could lead anywhere. In one place, straight down. We were all going slow, just one foot at a time to continue the forward momentum. Belle more than once reminded us that maybe going up wasn't all that we'd made it out to be. Had to agree 😃
Shit got real at our 43k mark. Our first 36-minute kilometre as one of our team started to flag. And also we caught up with a team where one member was clearly suffering, the other carrying both packs in order to help. It was at this point of the event today we felt as sweeps we warranted our position in the middle of the pack. We had asked if they wanted assistance, medical to come and assess and help. No was the answer. But a discussion 10 minutes after between sweeps had us calling in for advice, and ultimately for someone to meet us at the top of 4 Mile.
As we neared the top of the climb, Belle and I had pulled away from Nick and Babi, effectively running 2 teams of 2. Not out of any necessity, just that we were hiking faster, and Nick was staying with Babi, who was suffering badly on the climb (not the only sweep to falter that day). At the first sign of snow gums, I knew we weren't far from the top of the spur, and the bottom of the ski run that meets it. Above there, a water drop and we all needed to refill water flasks.
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View from the top of 4 Mile.
I took this mere seconds before realising my legs were covered in biting ants. |
Belle and I exited the top of the climb, and gazed back at the view we could now see. We decided to stop there and wait for Babi and Nick. Taking photos when I felt a bite on me. Thinking it's a fly, look down to swat it away and realised there were ants swarming everywhere. And everywhere included my legs up to the upper thigh. Trying to swat them away only pissed them off more, so they bit more. We soon both went, "Fuck this" and decided to clear out up to the water drop.
45.2k in 9 hours 49.
You'd like to think the water drop marked the end of the climb, until you look left and see the Buller summit, taunting you from up high. Realistically, it's no 4 Mile spur! As Belle and I are filling flasks, medical arrives. Chris Ord driving, the car bouncing all over the place, he acting like he's out of control. Thankfully there was a professional on board, Deb Sharp. Deb asks us about the runner we've seen and then then the 2 of them head down to meet them.
Nick and Babi arrive soon after. Babi is pretty well cooked. After a quick chat, she tells Nick and I that she doesn't want to summit Buller, wants to head straight back to the finish. We agree, not much more for us to do, so as we turn left towards the summit, she peels off back home.
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Nick and I at the top of 4 Mile, en route to Buller summit.
we can smile, no more 4 Mile.
Photo credit: The Eventurers* |
A few teams emerge behind us that we can see as we climb the final steps to Buller. get to the top and grab a photo of the 3 of us, Belle, Nick, and I. Partly as a future reminder to ourselves that we did this, partly to send to a friend, Andrea, whose life has taken a rough turn as her daughter battles a rare form of cancer. Andrea was meant to be sweeping with us, and we thought it only fitting that we shared part of this with her. It was also a reminder for us, and all the other runners; we signed up for this, the pain, dealing with the conditions etc. Cancer isn't something any of us sign up for, it just descends upon us like the nasty fucker of a condition it is.
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Belle, myself, and Nick at the summit.
Photo credit: Belle Campbell. |
One last look around, then we descend to the finish line. Traverse under the dam wall, built to help with snowmaking. Still trotting the downs and flats, which are mostly along here. Bump into Amanda Meggison, a quick chat, and watch another team head down to the finish (Meg and Daphne).
We start heading back again, hit the first street in the village, and run down towards the finish line. As we approach the finish line a few cheers from people passing, "Well done, looking well" etc.
"No no no, don't cheer us, we're just mid-pack sweeps"
"Mid-pack sweeps, what are they?"
"Just sweeps that... Oh, forget it."
And before we knew it, we'd been on our feet for 10 hours 42 covering 49.2 kilometres. Chuck in a lazy 1993 metres of vertical elevation, and any wonder we were glad to be finished.
Head to the pub, sit outside drinking beers watching the remainder of the field come across the finish line. Renee finally crosses and we see her hobbling. Rolled her ankle about 9k in, but she kept going and finished the 50k. But that was it for running for her for the weekend, and maybe a month as well. Gutsy, foolish, or pigheaded. Probably equal amounts of all 3 😂
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The next day, Belle, Nick and I headed out for a 12k run down to Dellatite Creek
to shake the lactic out of the legs. The best thing ever for recovery. |
Part of the reason for volunteering and sweeping (aside from supporting the race, and the cause) was to get some good time on the legs for Larapinta race in April. And this was the perfect hitout.
Readers of
Brave Faces will note at the end of that article that Belle and I intended to run together at Duncans, doing the 50. Covid saw to that. And surprise, surprise on Sunday 7th March we'll run together at Warburton Trail Fest, both doing the Donna Double. And then 2 weeks later, our deferred date with Duncans 50 again. Redemption time for us both, 2 years later 😁
Until next time...
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